Kirkby's latest 'Underground Vol. III' collection marks a significant reinterpretation of the iconic moquette fabrics that have long adorned London's public transport system. This collaboration with Transport for London breathes new life into eight historical textile patterns, dating back to the 1910s, transforming them into lavish upholstery velvets suitable for contemporary home decor. The collection meticulously preserves the historical essence of each design while infusing modern sensibilities through variations in scale, texture, and fashionable color schemes.
The distinctive moquette fabrics, often seen on the seats of the London Underground, are more than just durable coverings; they are cultural emblems. Each railway line boasts its unique pattern, with Wallace Sewell's 2010 'Barman' design being particularly recognizable for its rhythmic depiction of city landmarks. These patterns have transcended their original function, finding their way into various products, from household items to fashion accessories, illustrating their deep-rooted cultural impact. The 'Underground Vol. III' collection exemplifies this ongoing trend, bridging the gap between functional design and luxury interiors.
Many of the designs featured in the collection trace their origins to the 1930s, a period when Christian Barman, then London Transport's publicity officer, enlisted prominent artists and designers like Marion Dorn, Enid Marx, Paul Nash, and Marianne Straub. Their mission was to elevate the aesthetic of transport interiors through bold and modern textiles, effectively transforming mundane upholstery into a form of public art. This historical context underscores the artistic value embedded in these seemingly simple patterns.
Among the revived designs, 'Chalfont' takes inspiration from a floral moquette previously used in the first-class compartments of the Metropolitan Railway's steam locomotives. This design is re-envisioned as a two-tone cut-and-uncut velvet, echoing the grandeur of early rail travel. 'Brent,' based on Enid Marx's 1936 design, features a vibrant diamond motif that once graced District line carriages. Kirkby enhances its geometric precision and tactile quality through the use of cut-and-uncut velvet. 'Caledonian,' influenced by Marion Dorn's 1938 Metropolitan line design, reinterprets a classic tartan check into a simplified, graphic, and retro-inspired velvet. Additionally, 'Eden' draws from a 1930s Art Deco houndstooth pattern, refining it into a versatile, smaller-scale velvet.
'Bromley' updates a 1960s stripe pattern from Birr Fabrics, originally used in London Transport coaches, into an all-velvet pile with contrasting tones. 'Piccadilly' reworks a 1994 geometric moquette from refurbished 1970s Tube stock, transforming its fragmented design into a cut and uncut velvet. 'Northern,' inspired by Marianne Straub's 1965 design, enlarges its interlocking geometric blocks for a more striking visual impact, a pattern once prevalent across multiple Underground lines and double-decker buses. Lastly, 'Bakerloo' converts a 1960s geometric moquette from refurbished Tube trains into a rich, three-dimensional fabric.
The 'Underground Vol. III' collection beautifully showcases how these historical moquettes remain relevant, not merely as nostalgic symbols, but as enduring examples of British textile innovation. By meticulously re-imagining these patterns for modern living spaces, Kirkby underscores the powerful and lasting impact that thoughtful design, even in the most everyday settings, can have on our visual and cultural landscape.